There have been a lot of Sorbetto tops in the Self-Stitched September pool. I kind of passed over the whole rush to make versions of the shirt when the free pattern came out as the ones I was seeing weren’t really things I’d want to wear, but the SSS pictures changed my mind so I printed it off and decided to have a go.
My first problems came with my general co-ordination, I found it really hard to get the paper to stay in place while I taped it together and there was a lot of swearing and ripping off tape until I finally got it to a passable level.
I cut it out adding 2″ to the length as it looked too short for my liking and pinned the front together so I could do the pleat right away instead of unfolding it and then folding it again like the pattern suggested. I decided to use bias binding down the sides of the pleat so that it stood out in the busy print I’d chosen. I did french seams on the shoulder and side seams as they were the only seams that it had and tried it on to check the length.
At which point I lo0ked in the mirror and said ‘what the fuu…..’
What was going on with all that flapping fabric on the sides? I have never encountered a pattern that this happened with and I was a bit confused as to how to remedy the situation. I tried a larger dart, ending up with the front seam being about an inch and a half longer than the front, I tried taking in the side seam at the top but I couldn’t get it even as the majority of the extra room needed to come off the front. I thought about taking some extra length off the shoulder seams along with shaping the side seams. Then I threw it down on the sewing table and walked away for a bit.
Over the next 2 days I tried it on a few times and played with it, pinning here and there, to see if I could get it to work and I was reaching the point where I was thinking I either needed to take it completely apart and trim it, cut another front somehow changing it to fit better (I had no idea what I would actually do to the pattern piece so that was a fleeting idea!) or just throw it in the scrap bag and move on. Then, following a link from one of my regularly read blogs I came across Miss P’s blog and skimming through her posts to decide whether I wanted to subscribe I found this post.
Now that I knew that one of my ideas would actually work and that I just needed to put the dart in a different place and that it would look ok I got on with it, adding a whopping dart to each side, they tops of the darts were 4cm wide, that is one hell of a lot of fabric to have to remove.
By no means perfect but so much better than previously, so I pressed on and got the bias binding on the neckline and the armholes.
Um, yeah, my dressform isn’t the same size or shape as I am, I tend to use it to see how things are fitting together (ie how a collar will lie or how part of a pattern I don’t understand should look) rather than fitting! I think it looks pretty nice and that the fabric worked well with the white bias binding.
Look how big the armhole is even with the 4cm removed from it, why would you ever need an armhole that big?? I compared the pattern to others I’ve used recently and the difference was quite dramatic.
I know I’m basically complaining about a free pattern and that no one pattern can fit every figure type, however it has made me reconsider my recent decision to buy a couple of Colinette patterns. I’m thinking if I had to alter a basic shell this much that their more complicated patterns would need a ton more alterations and that would just drive me crazy. I have ordered the book though, I did wonder after making this whether to cancel the pre-order, but I figure that even if the patterns in it don’t work for me there could be sewing advice and information that I will find useful so I’ll see what it’s like when it arrives.
Once I’d tried the completed shirt on and decided it was ok I very calmly returned to the sewing room and placed the pattern and the instructions into the recycling, life is just too short to sew projects with issues like these more than once.