Waste of Time

I finally decided to cut out my Darling Ranges dress, it’s been on my list for ages and ages now but for some reason I just didn’t feel like making it, once I did there was no reason not to go for it.

I added an inch to the bodice length and took an inch off the skirt length to keep it the same length.  I overlocked all the edges and then got sewing.

When I tried to iron the bust darts flat I began to realise there was something wrong.  It’s a bloody huge dart and it doesn’t taper off like most darts I’ve come across, it seems to end rather abruptly.  Rather than just charging ahead like I usually do I decided to baste the side seams (shows you how concerned I was about it, I NEVER baste!) and sew the shoulder seams then try it on to see what was going on.

What the hell is going on there?  It’s not just on the dressform either, I didn’t want to flash my boobs at the world so I took the photos like this, but these darts in no way seem to make the dress fit a human bust and the length is slightly off on the front and back, they don’t fit together quite right which doesn’t help.

I also discovered something even more annoying.

I cut the XL size, the finished measurement given is 43″, as I’m 42.5″ at the moment I was ready for it to be a little too tight to wear right away, what I wasn’t ready for was no sign that it would fit any time in the near future.  My dressform is set to 42″ (and it’s about a B cup so smaller than me but right for the pattern as drafted supposedly) which is the bust measurement given for the largest size the pattern covers, there is supposed to be 1″ of ease so those fronts should overlap without any issue.  I went back and basted the side seams using a half cm seam rather than the 1.5 cm and it still wouldn’t close.  That’s just bad drafting surely, fine the dart might be a bit off and need adjusting for different sizes (the dart placement and size is the same for all the sizes which seems a bit odd to me) and shapes of busts but for it not to actually be the size it says it will be and to be this far off?  For a pattern that costs as much as this one did that’s pretty unforgivable.

I have folded it up and put it away, there’s no point adjusting the dart and trying to figure this out when it won’t fit anyway, I will wait and see if it will ever fit and adjust it then.  I might have enough fabric left to re-cut the front should I need to (this fabric had huge flaws in it I had to cut around) so I will put that away with it just in case.

The other day I ordered the Ashland Dress on a whim, we’ll see if I get on better with that one, it’s drafted for different cup sizes so maybe it will have some hope of fitting.

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3 thoughts on “Waste of Time

  1. I had to redraft the bodice on my Darling Ranges dress, but I thought it was a fault with the drafting on the smallest size only. Maybe not! I had to lower and lengthen the dart for it to make any sense. From scouring the interwebs, the most successful DRs seem to have quite a baggy bodice – quite 1990’s looking. Have you seen Pincushiontreats’ versions? She might be able to offer some advice on what she did to make hers fit. I agree it is frustrating to pay a lot for a pattern and it be so far out. I managed to get mine to work, but it wasn’t straightforward.

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